Rearing centipedes
I would first like to thank Vincent from scolopendromorpha.com for his awesome photos and caresheets ;)

Housing

Keeping centipedes is fairly easy as long as you follow one important rule

Make sure they can't escape!!!

Centipedes are real escape artists and lightning fast. Don't use containers made of thin plastic (at least 2-3 mm thick) otherwise they are able to bite there way out. It is also a good idea to house them in containers that are higher then the total length of the centipede (including terminal legs) + height of the substrate. This is not always possible but I highly recommend it if you're new to keeping centipedes.
Last but not least make sure that you use a lit that is secure. In my opinion the box on the next picture is the best choice.

Centipedes like to hide (in fact you rarely see them) so give them enough substrate to dig. I use humus mixed with vermiculite and a little sphagnum (70 / 20 / 10) for tropical species and humus mixed with sand (50 / 50) for the non-topical species. They also like a hiding place. Centipedes cannot survive long without water. The substrate should be moist but not wet (if the substrate is too wet the centipede can drown). You can place a water dish in the enclosure to make sure the centipede has access to water.

Feeding

Centipedes are mostly ambush predators although some species are active hunters. They eat live and dead insects and the larger species like subspinipes and gigantea also eat small mammals. In captivity roaches, crickets, grasshoppers and baby mice are mostly fed. I feed the smaller species Shelfordella tartara (redrunners) and Blaptica dubia / Blaberus craniifer to the big ones.

I usually feed my pedes one or two roaches once a week. Be sure to check the boxes regularly for leftovers because they can attract vermin like small flies, maggots and mites that could harm the pedes. The big pedes get a baby mouse about every 6 to 8 weeks. If the feeder insect hasn't been eaten after a couple of days it could be sign of an upcoming molt and it is best to remove it.

Handling

There are two relatively safe ways to handle centipedes that I will both explain on this page. Before I start I have one important thing to say

Never handle/hold centipedes with your bare hands

Centipedes are venomous and should never be handled unless necessary. Centipedes aren't deadly (there are some rumours but they have never been proven) but a bite can be quite painful.

The first method is the safest way to handle centipedes. Place a small container in the enclosure of the centipede and by gently touching it with a pair of tweezers/ pencil/ etc persuade it to walk in the container. Put the lit on the container and you're done. I mostly use this method on pedelings.

The second way (mostly used with larger species) is gently lifting it with a pair of tweezers. Make sure the centipede can't move (it could run to your hand) by holding it firmly but don't squeeze.

Raising

I like raising pedelings to adults because I can see them grow and develop into killing machines :). Raising pedelings isn't very difficult and I will tell you how to do it.

House the pedeling in a small container. This has two advantages. The first is you can keep many in a small area and second they will find their food more easily then in a big container. The most important thing with raising pedelings is to keep the substrate moist. Pedelings are very sensitive for dehydration. Make sure to keep the humidity up and the substrate moist (not wet). If you want to be absolutely sure the pedeling has access to water place a small waterdish (bottle cap) in the container.

I give dead prey the first time I feed the pedelings. After they have eaten I give them immobile/harmless prey for a couple of weeks. You can crush the head of a small cricket/roach with a pair of tweezers. That way the prey cannot harm the pedeling. After a couple of weeks the pedelings get live prey. It's fun to watch them hunt. I feed the pedelings once a week 2 crickets/roaches. This is enough for a pedeling to be remain healthy and grow. Depending on size it takes 1 to 4 years for a pedeling to reach maturity. One last thing, I keep all my centipedes (pedelings and adults) at room temperature 20 - 22 celsius during the day and 17 - 19 celsius at night. You can use extra heating to speed up to growing process but i don't think it is necessary.

The 2 pics above and below show the colour differences between pedeling and adult. I use this pics to show you the long way a pedeling has to go to get adult and it shows that it is almost impossible to identify a pedeling if you don't know which specie it is.

Molting

In order to grow centipedes have to molt. Pedelings molt about every 7 to 8 weeks, adults once or twice a year. Centipedes keep molting their entire life. When they're young the primary reason for molting is getting bigger but centipedes are also caplable of regenerating lost bodyparts. Days before molting centipedes stop eating and they also start to look darker and duller.

The actual molting process lasts 30 minutes up to several hours depending on size of the centipede. During molting the centipede gets spectacular colours which can be blue or green. Centipedes usually eat their molt to regain strenght.

The centipede has up to a couple of days to grow before it hardens up again. During that time the centipede is very soft and must not be touched. It is also a good idea to remove all feeder insects. They can damage and even kill the centipede because they are defenceless. On the following pics you can see what a Roach can do to a freshly molted Scolopendra gigantea. THe centipede died.

Diseases

On this page I will tell you about all diseases I've encountered and what you can do about it.

Dehydration / Underfeeding:
Seen from the side there's almost no room between the tergites (upperside) and sternites (underside) of the centipede. It also looks like the legs are flat. If it has progressed too far the chance to safe the centipede is small. The only thing you can do is give it access to water and food. You can cut some insect in half so the pede cantry to eat the soft parts.

Mites:
There are a lot of small dots that look like sans on and between the bodysegments of the centipede. If nothing is done the mites will increase in numbers and they can kill the centipede by blocking or getting in the spiracles. Mites are usually a sign that your substrate is too wet. The solution is simple. Put the centipede on dry substrate (with a full waterdish). The mites no longer have access to water and will usually be gone after a few days.